Article on: DIY Brake Duct Cooling

(Special thanks to Andre for this article at http://www.swanappeal.com)

Background
I'd bought the car without spots and somehow thought these were removed to allow for cooling for the brakes. On closer inspection I found that there was no way air could get through to the brakes as the wheel arch has a plastic liner which goes against the chassis and under the car too!

I did some research on the web and the only version I could find of brake ducting was on the Scoobymania site. This goes on the underside of the front spoiler and is then attached to the body work running underneath the car. As it is my car scrapes on some ramps so this wouldn't last very long. In addition I wanted to utilise the holes left by the spots.

I ended up buying some ducting from a local motorsport shop. I looked at metal induction vents to perhaps attach to the holes but was advised to just use cable ties. As they'd be behind the grille anyway it made sense and saved some money.

Process
Usual disclaimers apply ie. do this at your own risk! I started on the right hand side.

  • Turn steering wheel all the way to the right.
     

  • Remove spot covers.
     

  • Remove bolts/screws holding wheel arch plastic to the body. Note which came from where!
     

  • Feed ducting through the spot hole cover.
     

  • Where the plastic presses against the engine block, put one hand through the now loose plastic wheel arch in front of the tyre. Put your other hand on the inside of the wheel arch. Carefully feed the ducting through the narrow gap.
     

  • When you have enough ducting, cable tie it to the plastic (make small holes if required).
     

  • Move back to the front of the car and giving yourself some slack, cut the ducting. Your need a side cutter for the metal part.
     

  • To tidy it up I put some edging on the front end and cable tied the edges. I then put cable ties through the holes in the area and through the ducting itself.
     

  • Reattach the screws removed earlier.
     

  • Final step was to put the cover back on.
     




For the left hand side you basically follow the same steps as above. Note that there is nil space on the left hand side for the ducting so you're not able to reattach the plastic wheel arch liner agains the body after you put the ducting through. I used cable ties to reattach it to the body towards the bottom.


Problems
A few things to look out for:

  • The ducting tears very easily!
     

  • Depending on the width of your tyres, on full lock your tyres may scrape against the plastic. (I've got 225x45x17's.
     

  • I've found that this has further compressed the ducting but there is still some scraping on full lock.


What'd I'd do differently next time:

  • Get wider ducting that totally fills the hole in the front - compression and front installation will probably be more difficult though.
     

  • Strengthen central part of ducting with duct tape prior to insertion.
     

  • Flatten first half of ducting as much as possible.
     

  • Use the current ducting lengths as a template then preattach the edging and make the holes for the cable ties prior to installation.
     

  • Have duct tape on hand! In the absence of that I used insulation tape to wrap around the areas where I tore the ducting.

Pictures
Some pictures of the final job


Tools you'll need: knife, edging, ducting, duct tape, screw drivers, glue, side cutters, "hole" maker/pin.

Ducting in left wheel arch.

Ducting in right wheel arch. I did end up putting another cable tie in place of the metal piece you see due to the scraping on full lock.

Front with the cover off.

Front with the cover on.

I hope you find this useful and if you've got any ideas on improving the routing in particular or better ways/materials please let me know!


(The ISDC cannot be held responsible for any modifications that adversely effect the warranty of your car.)